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Friday, September 17, 2010

Treasure hunting: Salvaging the Steam Ship New York


Have you ever dreamed of what it would be like to find sunken treasure? To swim down and pop open the treasure chest filled with silver and gold coins that haven't seen the light of day in ages? Though it could never be that easy, I felt extremely fortunate that I was invited by my Aunt Renee and Uncle Gary to help crew for them on board Night Moves, a real life treasure hunting - scratch that - treasure finding ship, an incredible opportunity that inevitably will change the course of my life.



Gary is the capable Captain of Night Moves who has been an avid diver since he received his diving license at age 16 (the age minimum). In second grade his Aunt gave him the novel Treasure Island, which his Mom thought he was too young to read so he had to prove her incorrect, and ever since his dreams were filled with adventure and treasure. Raised in southern Louisiana on a sugar cane farm that he would eventually find himself running, many of his diving trips led him to the Gulf of Mexico in search of sunken ships that intrigued and utterly fascinated him while fueling his passion even further. The best way he found to locate these spots (sunken WWII vessels, huge oil tankers, merchant ships, and many others) was to coerce the hot spots out of commercial fisherman (where they would inevitably snag their lines and nets repeatedly over the years), and the easiest way to do that was sharing a few drinks with them at many of the local pubs. The fish congregate to ship wrecks like a natural reef, and undoubtedly fisherman would be very reluctant to part with such valuable information... he had to convince them he wasn't a fisherman but a diver in search of ship wrecks and often times offered his own prime fishing spots in return. With the coordinates to a possible new diving location in his pocket, he'd set out with friends on his sailboat with the difficult task of trying to locate the ship in the vast Gulf of Mexico by using primitive tools such as a depth gauge, fish finder, and a nautical map. They'd always hope to find the new spot but even if they didn't they still were on a boat, sharing beers and stories, and they loved spear fishing at the base of the oil rigs if they came up with a scratch. If it went well they'd succeed in locating the new vessel and often times returned with very cool artifacts like brass port holes, gun sights, compasses, builder's plaques, and other nautical treasures.

My Aunt Renee married Gary after many exciting dates where he taught her to dive, spear fish, and she quickly learned the navigation, communication, and seamanship skills necessary for her to become a capable crew member in her own right. She changed careers into drafting around the time she met Gary, and those skills would prove invaluable as she would be the one to not only dive but plot the most detailed site survey map I've ever seen... a real treasure map!

Avery is the dreamer of the group. I've never met him but from the stories I've been told I can tell he's very charismatic. I was told how he'd gotten his hands on a metal detector when he was very young with his friend Craig, and they'd dig up hole after hole on the back of Craig's property. After finding a civil war musket ball he was infected with the treasure hunting virus to which there isn't a cure. He became an avid scuba diver early in his life, and after spear fishing with Gary they planned future adventures exploring the gulf. After many successful ventures with Gary he decided since they were putting all this effort into finding these ships he'd start researching for ships that were documented going down with something worth finding. One of the ships that interested him was the S.S. New York, which when it sank in 1846 carried an estimated $30,000 - $40,000 in gold, silver, and bank notes (millions today). It was his years of researching articles, marine surveys, and interviews that focused the search to a general area where they believed it could have sank - which Gary was able to quiz the right fisherman who coughed up the coordinates to it's correct location!
Craig, a childhood friend of Avery since the age of 2, was easily convinced to join Gary and Avery on these adventures as well. As he was new to diving, often times he let the crazies go down on the really deep dives with the wrenches needed to unbolt the port holes and keep sakes - visibility in the gulf is often poor and no artifact is worth your life. He enjoyed his career as an engineer - and his intellect proved necessary in helping design the prop wash system needed to redirect the ships propulsion down to the seabed to blow the top layer of sediment away; thus revealing the surviving artifacts. It's also a very difficult thing to try and understand the events that transpired over 160 years ago by looking at one small blow site, but he knew they were clues that could lead them to an understanding of how the ship sank which is necessary to determine where the safe would be located which carried what they all called the 'motherload'. If you think golf is hard putting a ball in a small cup a few hundred yards away at least you can see the flag on your target - try locating a coin or safe in the endless bottom of the seabed which is covered in a couple feet of sand and mud...

These four characters, after discovering the vessel in 1990, used every bit of wit, persistence, time, and resources they had to become a successful treasure hunting operation - and they named the corporation 'The Gentleman of Fortune' after the pirates from Treasure Island. It didn't happen overnight - many, many, obstacles were hurdled when others would have given up - and any given factor could have shut down their dreams (like the Court Decision on claiming the site - which has very tricky archaeological implications) Countless artifacts, along with extremely valuable gold and silver coins were recovered and have financed the operation to the point it is today in hunt of the safe.

Due to medical reasons Avery had to leave the group, and I (along with other friends at various times) was given an opportunity to help crew, and if I wanted, to learn to dive and help in the salvage operation.

We use four anchors to hold us on location - and blow the prop wash for 30 minutes which pushes the sand and mud off of a 20-30 foot hole exposing the hard clay bottom. The sand collects onto the outer edges of the hole creating a berm ranging from a foot to sometimes 4-6 feet if we have been pushing the same sand in a single direction over the course of a few blows.
I hear the engine rev down, indicating the hole is ready for us to explore... So now I find myself walking awkwardly toward the dive ladder in my fins, with 14 lbs of weights strapped to my waist along with the already heavy scuba tank and gear - and I have to convince myself when I jump I won't sink like a lead weight directly to the bottom... With my mask pressed against my face I take my first plunge followed shortly by my first breath underwater - a whole new world is about to present itself to me! I grab the down line that is tied to the boat leading to the weights sitting in the freshly blown hole - and I begin my descent into the abyss clearing my ears as often as I could all the while wondering how much further I have to go to reach the 60 foot depth - probably 5-6 times deeper than I've ever been before. Stay calm... Don't panic... Upon reaching the bottom I clip my reel to the down line as I was trained - and with a visibility of around 6 feet I wondered if I could see the light of the sun shining on the surface - so I looked up...

Water started flooding into my mask - DON'T PANIC! I could taste the salt water in my mouth - and I knew I could neither panic and try to resurface or afford to do anything that would cause the mask to flood further as I'm not sure how to clear the mask... I pressed the mask back against my face and realized my straps were loose and when I looked up the buoyancy of the air in my mask was pulling it away from my face allowing the great pressure of water surrounding me to enter my mask... I called Gary over for his assistance and after a few pulls on my straps to tighten them I was breathing, stable, and ready to start exploring this underwater world. I passed my first test!

I followed behind Gary and I saw him pick something up - it was a knife! I quickly realized that I'll never find anything by following and feeling more comfortable already I decided I'd take my reel and swim ahead... it didn't take but maybe another minute and I found my first treasure! Another knife! The blade was covered in barnacles which acted as a natural sheath. Most people's first dive is in a pool and here I am on a shipwreck riddled with artifacts! Upon surfacing I learned these knives were special indeed and were built with ivory handles. Another artifact, a marble plaque probably attached to the wooden crate the knives were originally contained in, said they were imported from Germany by Henderson and Gaines operating out of New Orleans on Canal Street! How crazy is that! To know that I was the first person to see this in over a 164 years was chilling in deed...

My first dive definitely tested my nerves - but as I continued to take the plunge I'd become more and more familiar with the equipment and overall process used to complete these dives safely. I began to hear Gary tell the dive boat "found another coin" and I couldn't have been more jealous that he had that underwater metal detector aiding his search! Completely unfair! I was hoping to pull my weight on board - and while I felt I've done a good job crewing on the surface I hoped I could prove myself as a diver as well. I knew it would take time to get comfortable with the gear and process - but it was my wish that I'd find something valuable enough to at least cover the expense of having me on board. So after my first 7 trips to the bottom, visually finding broken wine bottles and nails, I'd get my chance to start using a metal detector on my own - yet another item to learn and get comfortable carrying and operating.

Everything has a technique. Something that would take Gary, Craig, or Renee 1 minute would take me 10 if I didn't apply the techniques they were teaching me properly. For example, when finding a metal detector hit it's important to find the center not only horizontally but vertically as well. This should pen point the item, but if it's covered in sand you should fan the water above it to reveal it. Don't fan in both directions either - that will kill your visibility and if the item does move you won't know which direction... fan down the sand berm towards the hard clay field so the item can be recovered. I've had to learn not only diving, but treasure hunting 101 as well. In low visibility swimming around will get you disoriented very quickly. I've learned to use my compass to keep me straight on which direction I'm facing and to help me visualize my work area better. These coins can be worth suitcases of money, so leaving any behind isn't an option. After we dive a hole - we need to have a reasonable amount of assurance that we didn't leave anything behind - because no one wants to dive a hole that someone else didn't clear.

We've started finding some very interesting items; one's that most assuredly were located in the pursers office... and if they had eyes I'm sure they must've stared at the safe for years... but with seas starting to roll in from a hurricane in the south western gulf we reluctantly lifted the prop wash so we could motor back to port.

I'm taking diving lessons this week while seas are rough - I just hope my instructor doesn't think I'm crazy when I tell her this story!







My first coin!









The S.S. New York sank after going thru an eye of a hurricane on September 7, 1846 - and while most passengers were able to survive on make shift rafts, nearly 20 lives were lost in this tragic accident. Thru the artifacts we find I hope their legacy can continue and that I can share with you times of a different era...

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Series Of Fortunate Events, Victoria BC

(Jason)

Vancouver Island on the west coast of British Columbia Canada is where I was headed equipped only with my backpack and my wit. Almost, I also had my Washington State accent, mammoth hair, and contagious smile all in full bloom. This trip needs to be shared because it shows how by putting ourselves out there in the world not having any expectations for what is to come allows the manifestation of the most powerful experiences of our lives. During my travels I have come to realize just how special and important I am to the world, just as everybody is. Doors have been opened so wide they have put holes in the theoretical walls that I have created and challenged the many different facets of the beliefs that I have held for what is possible in life, this trip is no exception. The adventure begins with me getting picked up in Everett Washington with just my backpack, driving to the boarder of Canada to my mom's house in Blaine, and spending the night hanging out with my brother and drinking home made wine with my cool aunt and uncle. Family first, literally on this trip. Morning time came and so I made my way to the ferry terminal across the boarder in Tsawwassen Canada. Boarding the ferry I felt as though I was taking off on the grand voyage on the Titanic, but hopefully with a better ending. The sun was out, the seagulls were flying above, and soon I was off headed toward Vancouver Island on yet another adventure full of more characters then I could count, good times to remember, and random events I felt as though this article should be called a series of fortunate events.

As I walked onto the ferry, I noticed a cool looking girl next to me and as usual I began flapping my lips being friendly and before long I had made a new friend. Liz I soon realized was a really interesting girl traveling across to Tofino, a small surf town on the Island. Following her closely was her new friend Braden, who she had met at a hostel in Vancouver the day before. Before long Braden and I were comparing Hammocks seeing who's was better, it felt like we were establishing who was the Alpha in the newly established pack. By the end of the ferry ride we had had an epic harmonica jam, we tried setting up the hammocks with no success, and had decided to all go drink beer as soon as we got to Victoria. Victoria is the biggest city on the Island, full of history, and character. Arriving to the port, we got in line for the bus and then I noticed a guy extraordinarily pouring out sweat for no obvious reason behind me and so naturally I couldn't help to point it out to him and we all began laughing. He replied saying it was hot out even though it was cold and rainy. Nothing like some in line humor to make a bus ride better. We got dropped off in town close to the hostel, checked in, and then we learned of a local place called Big Bad Jon's. A rustic looking pub with cheap beer and good laughs. We spent two nights hanging out for hours on end, drinking, telling stories, admiring the hundreds of bra's above our heads, and getting in trouble every time we didn't tip from Jerry the manager of the bar. Or as I called him Denim Dan due to his unnecessary over sized coveralls that he wore as part of the theme of the bar. Big Bad Jon's was a mix between the wild west, and Canadians attempt to re-create the wild west, they did a fair job. It was good times, I highly recommend it for whoever travels to this great place they call Victoria.

Waking up the next morning, the goal was to get out of Victoria to make it up to my friend Amanda's place up more north on the island, but after finding out how expensive it was to get around the island by bus and train as well as missing the train that morning it just didn't seem like is was working out. Liz, Braden, and I tried a few times to rent a car, but every time we tried something wouldn't work right, like it being way too expensive. I could have hitch hiked probably very easily but my leg still wasn't completely healed from my snowboarding accident on Mount Hood back in August, and so I really didn't want to risk having to walk a far distance with my backpack in case I got stuck somewhere. As well as I didn't bring my sleeping bag so I wasn't wanting to sleep outside in my hammock with the unpredictable September weather. Meandering my way around the city for two days straight I did a little bit of the tourist thing, well more like the tourist that doesn't have much money with him thing. I did try to shake the hand of the wax figure of Barack Obama in a wax museum. He was standing next to George Bush, and Bill Clinton and I was thinking what a party that would be. In trying to shake his hand I crossed the laser beam and an alarm went off, oops, I felt like a little kid getting caught in the cookie jar. Also, I spent some time hanging out at the parliament building, learning how the very important Canadian building was designed by Francis Rattenbury who was only 25 at the time, and how he had lied about his age saying he was much older. Actually he had lied about  more then that, like how he lived in Victoria when in fact he really lived in England at the time, as well about how had constructed a few building that were built before his time all for his credentials on his Resume. I like that idea, it worked out for him he went on to be a celebrated architect. After I learned of this, I shared it with probably 10 people in the next couple days. For some reason, that is just what I do, I learn and then teach, even if I don't really know what that much about what I'm talking about, at least I can admit it, that's the first step in recovery as they would say in AA. Board of the building itself I set up my hammock in the hundred and something year old Sequoia tree in front for a while before getting kicked out by three security guys. I was entertained for a while though as the older tourist type passed by pretending to be interested in the tree as they clumsily looked at me swinging in my hammock in the branches wondering what I was doing, I felt like a monkey!


I slept in a hostel the first night next to an immensely loud guy snoring underneath me and a tremendously foul person who smelt like he didn't deem showers important across the room. I can go a couple days without a shower but come on dude, take a shower, it feels good I promise. Try going back a forward between hot and cold it stimulates the blood circulation in our bodies as well as feels great. I love hostels because how cheap they are, but after waking up in the morning with my mouth tasting like body odor, I was looking for an alternative for the next night, like outside in the rain if I had to, or even better yet under a bridge. I actually ended back up in the same room the second night but this time with ear plugs and the window wide open. As I continued to Rome around the city the next day I went to go ask a nice lady how to get inside of the Empress Hotel, and as I was talking to her I realized something, I realized that she had the exact same eye's I had, and as usual not having any filter I blurted it out and without hesitation, she agreed right back but with more excitement. Looking directly into each others eyes for the two minutes or so that we did, you would think it would be uncomfortable, but we were both really into it. Identical twin eyes, it doesn't seem like that big of deal until it happens and then it is thrilling. These are the things that happen to me on a daily basis as I travel, that's why I love it so much.



All that was really exciting and cool but what happens next blows all of that out of the water for random coolness, and awesomeness. I was hanging out with Liz and Braden the third night and trying to figure out where I was going to sleep because the hostel that I had been staying at was booked. Subconsciously I didn't make it to the hostel on time to book a room because I really didn't want to stay there even though I had no other plans for where I was going to sleep. That's kind of the story of my mid twenty's right now and I wouldn't have it any other way, every day is a new adventure and journey into the unknown. most days I feel like a deep sea diver entering into a new undiscovered cave full of wonder and new creatures to study and enjoy. It's funny because Jon, the Hammock Brother is actually doing something similar as that in Louisiana . He's searching for treasure on his family's boat for a couple months. Anyway, back to the story. I learned of another hostel with a bed to stay for the night and so I began walking down the street headed off to find it before it was booked for the night. As usual I was walking down the street and a notice a stunning blond haired blue eyed young woman to my right hanging outside of a Starbucks enjoying a cup of coffee with a familiar book sitting on the table next to her. I jumped on the opportunity to engage conversation with her with a quick, "Hey, I've heard of that book, is it any good?" she replied with "I haven't began reading it yet, but yeah I've heard it's good." After a few minutes of small talk I learned her name, Demi, which by the way I have never met another Demi so it was hard to get right for a while. We began to realize that we have a bunch in common like rock climbing, snowboarding, living for the day, bare foot running, and a wanting to be surf bumbs. Being my modest self, I never thought that she would want to continue hanging out after our conversation outside of the Starbucks but to my shock when I realized that I probably missed my chance of getting a bed at the hostel for the night she said she wanted to come with me to go find out. Wow! I began thinking to myself, this girl might actually be interested in me, as we walked toward the hostel. After about ten minutes of looking at maps trying to figure out where the hostel was, it turned out we were one door down from the entrance, that's probably some sort of simple philosophy for life, being so close to a goal and not seeing it. We entered in through the door, learned that they had one bed left, and then it came to the decision to take it or not. Earlier in conversation outside of Starbucks she had mentioned that it might be OK to stay with her in her car for the night, and so as I stood at the desk about to book the bed, I figured what the heck might as well call her bluff about if she really would be OK with me staying with her. Enthusiastically and unexpectedly she says, "Heck yes, that would be fun!" Spending the night hanging out with a attractive girl not having to pay a dime for the night vs. having to spend 30 dollars sleeping probably next to a bunch of stinky, snoring travelers. Not much of a choice really, sort of like choosing between going to Hawaii vs. and going to Iraq.

Within minutes we were on top of the Yates Street Parkade building above the city getting kicked off the roof by a really nice security guard, and then getting kicked out by him again within a few minutes, this time he was a little more stern, as he should have been or else we would have probably just done it again. We bought some wine and beer, walked down to the water front in a park, and got invited to jam out with some really cool new friends. Rachel, Andy, and Cory turned out to be very interesting, talented friends and we loved their company very much. I actually played a washboard for the first time and it was a blast, way better then original intentional use, washing clothes. Soon we would make a mass migration like a family of birds headed south for the winter, well more like a group of hippies that didn't have anywhere to sleep for the night.  So down to a cool free camping spot on a beach looking toward Washington state we were headed with more crap then I could carry, we finally found a nice part of the beach that was ideal, now hopefully it just doesn't rain. We played a ton of music, watched the night sky, and I really got to know Demi through great conversation. These are the types of nights that the majority of people watch in movies and will only dream about never experience.

Waking up the next morning, we decided on to go for a barefoot run to the top of one of Demi's favorite mountains. We picked up a bunch of local organic produce, as well as Lot's of water, because we were dehydrated from the night before after a abundance of wine drinking. This was my first long distance barefoot trail run, which was great. I just finished a book called, Borne To Run, it's all about running with little to nothing on our feet and why it is great for us. Nike and other shoe companies agree with their newer type thin shoes that are coming out. This is another thing I tend to talk about when I meet people because I believe in it so much. It is a lot of fun, try it yourself and you will begin to see the benefits. As we paced ourselves on the trail I began telling Demi about what along with my brother Justin are working on back at home, which is gathering and preserving as much food for winter as we can as part of our lifestyle design that supports local, quality, organic food. Health and ethical reason's drive us, it should be common knowledge for better nutrition and not supporting the high environmental cost's of transportation because of the status quo regarding these things isn't sustainable hence the whole "green" revolution that is happening. We crossed over a really high train track on the hike that if we would had slipped we would die, that's what was going through my head anyway. About half way across we can up on a landing and then sat and enjoyed the panoramic view and scenery from about five hundred feet up. Not a bad day so far, and then we headed to another great place. I had never swam in a salt water pool until Demi shared it with me at her work after our hike. We hung out there for a couple hours, enjoying all of the pampering amenities, it's a tough life. Demi and I agreed that the Edward Sharpe & the Magnetic Zeroes song, "Home" with lyrics like Hot and Heavy, Pumpkin Pie, Chocolate Candy, Jesus Christ, There Ain't Nothing Please Me More Than You, was our song. Next thing on the list, we were headed up to meet her parents. Wow, even though it had only been basically a day that we have known eachother, here I am hanging out with her parents Robin and Greg, both were very nice and accommodating towards me. Me, this random guy that their daughter had drug in through the door off the streets of Victoria. I love it! This day by far was one of the best days of my life, and not just saying that, it truly was. Without being to cheesy, It was truly magic, and will be remembered for the rest of my life. Everybody deserves to have days like these.

After spending the night at her parents house, I woke up to the sound of tranquilizing rain drops crashing into and cascading down the side of the house. Waking up for the second time to this stunning girl in a breathtaking dress, it doesn't get much better then this. We eat a great breakfast with Robin and Greg,  then I was off for another adventure. Demi had to go to work and so I decided to get dropped off at a book store in Victoria so I could finish my book. After a few hours of "Reading Rainbow" time as my good friend Frazier and I for some strange reason call it when we read, I headed off to find something good to eat. Demi had told me of a little place Called CafĂ© Bliss in town, so I tracked it down and had my first raw pizza which was made with only local organic ingredients as well as I took my first shot of wheat grass, which was expensive but very revitalizing. I have found that when i eat good quality food, it doesn't take as much to fill me up, and that's a good thing because it wasn't very much food at all. My time at bliss was great, once again I attracted a deep philosophical conversation with my new friends Wendy, and Ryan whom I had met while enjoying my food. Probably an hour or so went by in deep conversation and by the end of it once again I had two good friends in which I felt like I have known forever. The rest of the day was spent hanging out with more new friends that I met on the street of Victoria including a cool guy named Kris whom had hitch hiked across Canada ten times, as well as Landin whom is working on eliminating the need for money in the world, a noble goal to say the least! I also met a couple who have been living with what's on their back for years with many stories to tell as well as I had an epic jam session once again with two more new friends Fox, and Lindsey, they were very nice and full of jokes, as it seems most everybody is that I find myself associating and connecting with. I love people who don't have ego's and have interesting things to say. All of my new friends fit in this amazing category. That's what is great about life, we can chose to hang around with really good people, and in turn we ourselves become better. After one more day full of cool people, food, and stories I met back up with Demi as she got off work and spent the night watching a movie, listening to music, and talking about our future dreams in the back of her Acura before passing out. Raw, local, organic pizza 8.25 at Bliss, crashing out in the back of an Honda Acura on top of a tall parking building over looking Victoria with the coolest girl in the world, priceless....... As they say.

The next morning came to quickly for it was time to start making my way back home. We woke up, enjoyed some great coffee together, got even more excited about our future dreams of rock climbing, snowboarding, being hippies in California surfing every day, and barefoot running together but now it was time to say goodbye. I didn't think it was going to be as hard as it was, but I really had a hard time letting go of her, I hugged her for a few minutes straight, I'm sure she was probably having a hard time breathing. I hoped on the bus, took the ferry home, met even another great person named Grace who invited Demi and I to come out with her in Vancouver some time, and then I got picked up in Tsawwassen. Nice, One more grand adventure was under my belt. It's hard to articulate in words all that this trip meant to me and to all the good people that I encountered along the way. We are all more connected to each other then most including myself realize. I prove to myself over and over again that every time I take the risk to leave home and enter into this big world the reward is much too great. This all means more to me then all the money in the world. I feel like I get a little closer to truly understanding why I am put on this earth, with travels like these. The world is our oyster, so butter it up and slurp it down! Metaphorically speaking of course.

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

A Good message From a Life Long Friend





How's it going guys?

Just thought I'd drop you guys an email, wanted to say a few things. 

I've been living in Edinburgh for a few weeks, a completely new adventure and lifestyle, a new place, and most importantly some brilliant and diverse new people. Being in such a beautiful place has led me to contemplate life a lot (as I constantly am ... my mind is a different animal since leaving home in November 2009 and is now filled with beliefs and dreams), and I have been reminiscing an incredible amount about my time with you guys in the States. So primarily, I wanted to say, on a really profound note, that I would like to thank you guys again for really, really helping to transform my outlook on life so much for the better, and would like to say that I am going to do my absolute, comprehensive utmost to come and adventure and live life with you guys next summer if you will have me. I am in a staggeringly fortunate position in life and I pray that I will not waste it, and indeed don't think I will waste it, largely thanks to you guys. Our outlooks are beautifully similar and I would love nothing more than to develop ourselves and maximise life and further the hammock brothers with you guys. 

Secondly, I would like to say that, if you think it a good idea, I would like to post continuous articles to the blog recording my lifestyle and adventures and beliefs as they develop over the next few months, because I truly believe in the Hammock Brothers and all that we epitomise. Furthermore, I will post photos and even a video of our time together in due time.

Finally, I just want to wish you guys phenomenally well in your immediate adventures, and vow to follow religiously via the website and Skype always. I wish I was out there living life with you guys ... and if I hadn't of got the Oxford place I would be with y'all now. 

You are the most brilliant people I have ever met.

Loads of peace and love,

Your friend and fellow for life,

Sam xxx